Garden Help Desk: Growing better blackberries at home | News, Sports, Jobs






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Blackberry flowers have a central structure that holds many individual ovaries. Each ovary must be pollinated so that it can grow into a plump little “ball” of blackberry fruit. Fruit development will be uneven if the flowers are not sufficiently pollinated, or if insect activity is damaging the ovaries.

A few years ago we planted blackberry bushes. A plant is really just a bunch of single stems that send out a large number of runners. I’m not sure if many will be produced. If you leave all the stems, the plant will be a clump of growth, so just leave a portion of both stems. The ground seems to be moist in the summer thanks to the sprinklers, and I’m wondering if I should do flood irrigation again this year.

A little understanding of how sugar cane (blackberries and raspberries) grows can help you make good pruning decisions.

Regardless of the variety you have, your blackberry plant will have a perennial crown, an underground part, and a biennial cane that can be seen above the ground. not. Most commonly it grows one year as new green canes called primocane, blooms in the second year and bears fruit on those canes called floricans (there are several varieties). cultivars of blackberries that bear fruit on primocane). At the end of the second season, those fruiting canes will die off and need to be pruned, while the green canes that grow each year should not be pruned, as they will bear fruit in their second year.

Blackberries also require an extra pruning step to maximize berry production.

Late fall and winter are the best times to plant berries and remove all cane that has produced fruit during the season. Those old canes are dead and do nothing but make the blackberry fields more crowded.

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A well-tended blackberry will flower and produce abundantly when there is a healthy pollinator to carry the pollen to the flower.

I have to keep the cane that was new last season. This is where you can get seasonal flowers and fruits. Only remove canes that are barbed, broken, or otherwise damaged.

Maintain all healthy shoots growing this year. They intend to provide next year’s flowers and fruits. Remove only new ones that are particularly thin or growing in the aisles. Then, if you have a lot of new buds that are still crowded this season, you can selectively prune some of them to keep the best ones. Cut back a few inches at the top of the new 4-5 foot cane. This is called a “tumble” and encourages cane side branches to produce more fruit next season.

If you do the pruning I described, your berry planting won’t be a clump of excess growth.

If you see a lot of flowers each year with few fruits, or if most of the flowers are fruits with only a few drupes (the little “balls” that make up the berries), you may have a pollination problem. There is a nature. Do you regularly use pesticides in your landscape? It can interfere with pollinator activity. Looking for pests on a regular basis? Insect feeding damages young flowers and fruits and impedes the development of some drupes.

Your watering may also be part of the fruit quality issue. about once a day), less frequently in the spring and fall. The soil should be slightly dried between waterings so that air can reach the roots. You should check how the area is watered so that the berry plants are not watered too often. If an area remains consistently wet during the summer, supplementing with flood irrigation will do more harm than good. Ideal.

Another thing to check is the amount of sun your plants receive. They need at least 6 hours of good quality sun during the day. Early morning and late afternoon sun are not the best options.



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