Garden Help Desk: What caused these hard cores in my tomatoes? | News, Sports, Jobs

Courtesy Meredith Seaver

Hard white cores and tough fibrous tissue in tomatoes may be due to nutrient imbalance problems in the soil. Extreme weather problems also affect tomato fruit. Proper gardening can reduce the risk of such problems.

Most of my tomatoes this year had hard white middles that I could barely cut. what happened?

Tomatoes with hard white tissue in the center of the fruit have a physiological disorder called the white core. Garden tomatoes can also develop a woody or fibrous core. Affected fruits generally appear perfectly normal in appearance. There are several things that can cause problems.

High temperatures during ripening can cause symptoms, which can also be caused by problems with soil fertility and fertilizer programs. Some tomato varieties are more prone to problems than others. I have. Occasionally, insect damage can result in a hard or woody core.

What can you do to increase your chances of a bountiful tomato crop next year?

We can’t do much about next year’s extreme heat, but there are some things you can do to mitigate the effects. Inches, several sheets of newspaper, and a grocery bag or similar. This keeps the soil a few degrees cooler. Shade cloths are also helpful in the afternoon heat. You won’t feel the shade, but even 20-30% shade can lower the temperature of the plant’s canopy by a few degrees.

Courtesy Meredith Seaver

Late spring frosts can damage the flower buds of plants such as pomegranates.

Get a soil test by next year. Adequate potassium is important for good tomato production. Utah soil is usually high in potassium, but a soil test can tell if your garden’s potassium levels are too low, too high, or just right. Do not use fertilizer.

A combination of high potassium and low nitrogen levels can cause white cores, as can high doses of nitrogen. Try to spread a small amount over time.

Choose varieties that have white core resistance or heat resistance listed in the description.

Frequently look for insects such as aphids and whiteflies, and protect plants with insecticidal soap or gardening oil as needed.

What pomegranate trees grow best in Payson?

Courtesy Meredith Seaver

Pomegranate trees produce beautiful flowers, but unpredictable weather in spring and fall can make fruit production difficult.

Most pomegranates require warmer winter conditions for reliable survival and consistent production than Payson can provide. These hardy pomegranate cultivars may survive here until an unusually cold winter comes, but it’s not just whether the trees will survive the winter or not. It is necessary to consider the above.

Like many other fruit varieties that are moderately hardy in Utah County, hardy pomegranates are more cold-hardy during dormancy, but are more susceptible to cold damage if they begin to break dormancy early. A sudden late freeze can damage or kill the tree. Or, even though the tree survived a late spring frost, the buds and flowers all died, leaving the tree “barren”.

Another common problem with trees and shrubs in our area is sudden cold damage after a long, mild autumn. Your pomegranate trees are more likely to be damaged than other woody plants in your landscape.

Your best option for success is to 1) explore the landscape and identify a sunny, sheltered microclimate suitable for your tree, and 2) find potted plants that you can bring into your solarium or greenhouse during the winter. Either grow a pomegranate tree as a tree, or 3) move. Place the potted tree in a shed or unheated garage to protect it from inclement weather when it goes dormant and keep it dormant until you’re ready to break the dormancy. Whichever you choose, it’s a bit of a gamble.

Some gardeners choose to keep pomegranate trees pruned in tree form, but pomegranates naturally have growth habits similar to shrubs. Maintaining may facilitate winter protection or access to protected areas as a potted plant.

Here are three pomegranate varieties that could survive here with proper care and planning. Be aware that descriptions in plant catalogs and gardening sites can be optimistic.

Kazake: It’s a little more robust and compact, so it’s easier to manage in a container.

red silk: Although it is not particularly cold-resistant, it grows compactly and is suitable for container cultivation.

Salavatski (aka Russian Red): It is more cold tolerant than popular varieties.


Join thousands of people who already receive our daily newsletter.

Source link

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *